Design By Dawn

www.designbydawn.com       designbydawn@aol.com

610 Fitzgerald Dr.  Wilmington, NC  28405

910-397-9061

1.            First of all...every flat back I sell is hot fix.  This means that they all have glue on the back of them that is activated by heat.  Every crystal and pearl I carry is a Crystallized™ - Swarovski Element, which is the best on the market.  There are also metals in many sizes and shapes.

2.            There are several applicators on the market.  Many of them are made by the same company…they are the exact same tool, just different colors and different names.  Great marketing in my opinion…but it doesn’t matter which one you have.  The tips were designed by an engineer with Swarovski crystal as the crystal used to create the shape of the tips and it generates the correct heat for the low heat hot fix crystals.

3.            The applicator comes with 8 different tips.  Six of the tips are for the different size crystals and two of them are flat.  The flat ones are used for the metals.  With the metals, you place them where you want them and then with one of the two flat tips, place it on top of the metals for about 5 to 7 seconds with a little bit of pressure and it is done.

4.            I usually put a small piece of my Teflon ironing sheet over top of any of the colored metals as the base metal simply has a color coating on it and can be scratched.  I would also suggest clothing that any colored metals are on be turned inside out to be laundered.  As long as we are talking of laundry.  All items can be washed and dried.  But…very important…as long as they are put on properly which I am about to show you how to do.

5.            First of all…I think it is very important to use a mirror.  It could be a hand mirror or even a little compact mirror that you buy in the dollar store.  Any mirror will do.

6.            Next, you need some type of hard flat surface to press the crystals into the fabric.

7.            And last, you need a long straight pin or hat pin.

8.            The mirror is for several reasons.

?      You must work on a hard flat surface or you won’t be able to pick up the crystals properly.

?      If a crystal falls off, it will fall on to the mirror and not onto your fabric.  If it falls on to the mirror, don’t touch it until it is cools.  After it cools, you can usually scoop underneath it and lift it.  The glue is still there so you aren’t wasting the crystal, but if you had pressed in to the fabric, it would leave a mark and the crystal wouldn’t be any good anymore.

?      Also, you can lift the mirror up and move it to where you are working.  Therefore, you aren’t moving the crystals as far…less chance of it falling out.  If a crystal does fall on the mirror, again…leave it alone until it cools.  Since the mirror is non porous, the glue will  not adhere permanently.  You can pop it off the glass and the glue is still there and you haven’t lost the crystal.

?      But…most important is that you can watch the glue melt in the mirror.  You are not turning the applicator over.  Less movement, less chance of it falling out.  And if you have bifocals on, it is much easier to look down into the mirror than to turn the applicator over and try to focus on the crystal.

9.            The size of the crystal determines the amount if time it will take for the glue to melt.  When using the 10ss size, the glue melts almost as fast as you can get it from the mirror to the fabric.  But the larger the crystal, the longer it takes and you can actually watch for the glue to be completely melted.  If the glue is not completely melted, they will not stick as well as needed.

10.        When you pick up the crystal, be sure to go straight down on the crystal and lightly set the tool on it and immediately pick up the crystal.  If you don’t pick it up immediately, the glue has already started to melt and may not come off the mirror.  Once the glue is melted.  Touch the crystal down where you want it and with a hard flat surface, press it into the fabric.

11.         Don’t press the crystal in with the tool, always pick up the tool and use something else to press it in.  If you press it in while the crystal is still in the tool, chances are you will jam it into the tool and it won’t come out at all.  If you leave the crystal in the tool too long, it also will not come out of the tip.  Be sure to place the crystal as fast as the glue melts.

12.        When this happens or once in a while, a crystal will not come out of the applicator for other reasons.  That is where the straight pin comes in.  Each of the crystal tips has a slit in it.  When a crystal won’t release on it’s own, use the pin placed inside the slit…set the crystal where you want it, hold the pin down and lift the applicator.  Don’t forget to then press the crystal into the fabric.

13.        If you don’t do the final step of pressing the crystal into the fibers, as the clothing gets washed, the fibers loosen up and since the crystal is not attached to as many fibers as possible, chances are that the crystal will become loose or fall off altogether.

14.        Ok…that’s it.  Now…about the products I have available.

?      All crystals are Crystallized™ - Swarovski Elements.  This is important to know.  There really is a difference between theses and other crystals.  First, the glue is the best on the market.  There are also more facets on the Crystallized™ - Swarovski Elements, which means more refraction of light so you don’t need as big a crystal to get the same amount of shine.  Also, the crystals are real lead crystal.  A rhinestone is glass and doesn’t have the reflective qualities that a crystal does.

?      I want to remind you that the glue on the crystals is meant for fabric and porous surfaces.  You can certainly use them on your cell phone and other non-porous items, but not with the glue that is on them.  You will need to use a 2-part epoxy that is available in any hardware store.

15.        Everything is sold in Individual Bags.  We have over 90 different colors of crystals and pearls and most of them are in 5 different sizes.  The crystals are also in mixed packages of 4 different colors.

16.        HFT stands for Hot Fix Transparent.  This means that the metal backing is not on the crystal so they take on more of the color under them.

17.        All of the sizes of crystals are priced the same, but the number of crystals in the package goes down as the size goes up.  The label on each package tells how many crystals are in the package in the top right corner.  The top left corner is the number you will use to reorder that exact crystal in size and color.

18.        All metals are sold by the gross and are marked accordingly.

19.         You can also purchase the Crystals Kits.  Each kit is described in the charts available on the web site.  Basically, the crystal kits have 18 sections in them and each section has a half package of crystal in them.  This way, you can get a larger variety of crystals without spending the money on 18 whole packages, plus you get the box for free.  The box is great.  No crystals visit each other.  Again, the number of crystals depends on the size of the crystal.  The metal kits have a gross of each metal in them.  There is even a Completely Crystal Kit that gives you 84 full packages of crystals plus the applicator, crystal spoon, tweezers, petite organizer and applicator caddy.

20.        The crystals are also packaged in Crystal Embroidery Design that you can view on the web site.  The embroidery design is coupled with the crystals and anything else you need to finish the designs.  Some of them have Angelina in them or the fabric appliqué cutouts if called for.  Some designs do as many as 10 times and you can always purchase more crystals. 

21.        Several of the Crystal Embroidery Designs simply stitch out placement for crystals and don’t actually show any embroidery when you are done.  The samples are stitched with a contrasting color but these designs should be stitched out in the color of the background so the stitches don’t show.  They simply help you have perfect placement, all evenly spaced and when finished, they look very professional.

22.        The series of books called Dot to Dot…Crystal to Crystal are also a great way to create crystal designs and don’t require any embroidery.  There are many patterns to choose from and you simply place the crystals or metal on mylar and fill in the pattern and then iron the entire design on your fabric all at one time.

23.        The last way to purchase the crystals is the Crystal Club.  Please see the appropriate page on the web site for details.

24.        Everything is available on www.designbydawn.com.

Frequently Asked Questions

?             What do I need other than the crystals?  If you are going to put crystals on one item and never do it again, then try using a regular iron.  But, if you are going to do any amount of crystals past that, it is very definitely worth the money to purchase the applicator that was made just for the crystals.  Along with the tool, there are a few additional items that make the application process easier, but they are not a necessity.  A mirror, a hard tool to press the crystals into the fabric and a straight pin.  An explanation of each item follows…

?             I have a Kandi Kane.  Is that the same as the Decorative Touch?  Yes…just a different color.  There are several on the market that are all made by the same company.  The tips are the same for all of them and were created specifically for Swarovski Crystals.

?             What kind of glue do I need?  None.  The glue is already on the crystals.  The applicator heats through the crystal and activates the glue on the bottom of them.  You just touch them down where you want them and then press them into the fibers of the fabric with a hard flat surface and you are done.  See below for other applications

?             Are the crystals permanent?  Yes…if the crystals are put on properly, they will not fall of.

?             Can you put them in the washer and dryer?  Again…if they are put on properly, they won’t fall off.

?             What is the difference between a Crystallized™ - Swarovski Elements and any other crystal.  In a word…SHINE.  A crystal has lead in it, which refracts more light than a rhinestone which is simply glass or plastic.  Crystallized™ - Swarovski Elements are by far, the best on the market.  Not only does the Swarovski crystal have more cuts or facets than any other crystal, which means even more light refraction, but the glue is patented and by far, the best on the market.

?             Can’t I just put the crystal where I want it and use the flat tip on top of the crystal to heat the glue?  I wouldn’t suggest it.  This is the way you apply the shapes and the metals, but when you are working with the crystals, the best way to attach them is with the correct tip.  For a few reasons…when you use just the flat tip, you are only heating the top of the crystal.  When you use the proper tip, it surrounds the crystal and heats it up evenly.  You can also watch the glue melt and when you touch it to the fabric you are sure that the glue is melted completely and that is how you know it will be permanently adhered to the fabric.

?             How do I know when the glue is melted?  The glue gets shiny and mounds up a little.

?             Why do you suggest to use a  mirror?  There are several reasons for the mirror.  I lay my crystals on a mirror.  First of all, it is the hard flat surface that you need to pick them up from with the tool.  Second, I can move the mirror to where I am working which means the crystal has to travel less distance in the tool, so less chance of the crystal falling out of the tool.  If the crystal does fall out, it will fall on the mirror and not on your fabric.  Let it cool and the glue is still there.  And last, I don’t have to turn the applicator over and watch the glue melt.  I watch it in the mirror, therefore, it has less chance of falling out of the tip.

?             What do I do if a crystal does fall on my fabric where I didn’t want it?  Don’t touch it.  Let it cool…then lift it off.  If it has not been pressed into the fibers of the fabric, chances are it hasn’t been stuck and will lift off.  This is why it is important to press the crystal into the fibers of the fabric once place.  Pressing it in, should not be done with the applicator.

?             Why should I not press it in with the applicator?  It could push the crystal farther in to the tip and then it doesn’t release properly.  By having the fabric on a hard flat surface, when the crystal is touched down on the fabric and the applicator doesn’t really touch the fabric.  When the tip touches the fabric, you could leave a ring on the fabric.  The tips get a little dirty with use and if you press, you could mark the fabric.  So if you do the pressure with the applicator, it could mark the fabric or it could jam the crystal into the applicator

?             The crystal gets stuck in the applicator.  How do I get it out?  First of all, if the crystal is getting stuck in the applicator, there are a few reasons for that happening.  As explained above, you are pressing it into the fibers and it is jamming.  Second, when you picked it up off the mirror, you didn’t come straight down on the crystal…if you came at it at an angle, it isn’t coming out. Another reason for the crystal not coming out is that you left it in the tip for too long.  I can’t explain why, but I do know if you leave it too long, it doesn’t come out well.  I am guessing that the crystal expands with heat just enough to make it snug.

?             How long does it take to heat the crystal?  This all depends on the size of the crystal.  But, using the proper tip to heat them speeds up the process a lot.  As explained above, the crystal is being heated from all around and not just the top facet.  The glue on the Swarovski crystals is activated at a lower heat so it takes even less time to heat.  But…basically, with a 10ss crystal, before you can move it to where you want it, it is ready to set.  The larger the crystal, the longer it takes, but the easier it is to watch the glue melt.

?             What does “ss” mean?  Stone Size.  SS means stone size.  There is a chart on my web site that tells you what “ss” is what size in mm. 

?             How can I tell which tip to use.  The tips have both the mm and the ss engraved on them but you need a magnifying glass to see it.  But the easiest way to tell if you have the right tip is to set the crystal on the mirror, glue side down.  With the tip off the applicator, set it on top of the crystal.  If you hear the metal hit the glass, you have the wrong size tip.  The correct tip will not touch the glass and will leave a fraction of an inch space.  It may not pick up the crystal at that time, as the metal expands a touch when it is heated, allowing just enough room to pick up the crystal.

?             Can I use the crystals on my wedding gown? Yes…But please complete a test first.  I also want to caution you to be sure to put protection under the layer of fabric you are working with.  The glue could seep through sheer fabrics and “stick” layers of fabric together.  The crystals can even be applied to tulle and chiffon.

?             Can I use the crystals on leather? Yes and no…Leather is not fabric.  It is not porous enough to allow the glue to adhere properly.  They can be popped right off.  But…there is no reason that you can’t use the crystals with glue meant for leather.

?             I want to decorate my cell phone.  Will the hot fix crystals work for this?  Well…again…yes and no…the glue on the crystals won’t work, but you can still use the crystals.  Swarovski suggests a two part epoxy which can be found in any hardware store.

Easy to Apply Directions-Motifs

?           Motifs are ready to set.  Simply peel off the backing.  All the pieces will be stuck to the clear Mylar.  Simply place it on your garment and iron it on.  That’s it!  But…there are some important things you need to do.  Read on and follow all the suggestions and you will have a beautifully decorated garment that will last through washing after washing.

?           There are a few very important instructions to follow…customers have called me and said they were having problems and every time it was because they didn’t follow these instructions.  So first of all…here are a few must do’s…or must not do’s.

?           Do iron on a hard flat surface!  Do NOT use an ironing board.  The exception to this is when there are several different heights of crystals or metals.  Then use a padded board or layers of a fluffy towel to iron on.

?           Do iron with medium or wool heat.  Do NOT use steam!

?           Do let the entire motif cool before peeling it away…But Do NOT let it get completely cold…or warm it up just a little before peeling off the Mylar.

?           Do leave the iron in one place for 45 to 50 seconds and then put pressure on it for another 15 seconds before moving on to the next area.

?           Do move the iron a little so that if there are any pieces under one of the holes in your iron, it gets the pressure it needs also.

Now that you have read the most important things to remember, let’s do it step by step.

?           Place the garment on a hard flat surface or a layer of towels.  I like to use a padded quilt board when there are different heights of crystals.  If your ironing board does not have a thick padding, try it.  If the motif doesn’t stick, move your project to a different surface.  If the fabric is thin and there is a chance that the glue will seep through to the back, slip a Teflon ironing sheet inside the shirt.

?           When doing a neckline, it is easier to place it perfectly if you first cut away excess Mylar and the white backing.  It is easier to cut when the white backing is still on.  Cut the motif into sections if necessary so that it forms around the contour of the neckline.

?           Now peel off the backing and replace any pieces that may have been moved in transportation or while peeling off the back.  Place the design on the garment checking to be sure it is centered and straight…if of course, that is what you want.

?           You can place a Teflon ironing sheet on top to protect the fabric.  It is not necessary for the sake of the design.  If you have a Teflon slipper on your iron, turn your iron on high.

?           Be sure your iron is not too hot and place it on top of the Mylar.  Leave it for 45 to 50 seconds…moving it slightly a few times to be sure that the holes have not gotten in the way of heating the pieces.  After that amount of time, put pressure on the iron again, lifting the iron and placing it down in a slightly different position.  Do not move the iron back and forth.  Lift and set it down in a different spot.

?           If the design is larger than the iron, move on to the next area and repeat the heat and pressure process until you have completely covered the design.

?           Let the motif cool off.  But not cold.  If the design gets cold, run your iron over the entire thing to warm it up a little.  This will release the Mylar from the fabric.  If this step is omitted, when you pull up the Mylar, the nap of the fabric is also pulled and you can get a mark all around where the Mylar was.  If this happens, spay sizing can erase that mark.

?           Slowly pull off the Mylar.  If any of the components stay attached to the Mylar, they were not heated enough and need to be heated again.  Without pulling it off completely, lay it back down and follow the process again in the loose area.

?           If there are different heights of pieces in the design, it is possible that you are not putting enough pressure on the smaller parts.  Just move the iron around so that all areas get pressure.  The glue on the backs of the pieces must be pressed into the fibers of the garment. Or you can then iron from the back of the piece on an ironing board where the heat is closest to the glue.

?           Once you have pulled the Mylar off, run your hand over the entire design, feeling for any possible loose pieces.  You can put your iron back on the entire area or use the Decorative Touch or heat applicator to heat up just the pieces that seem loose.

?           To be sure that everything is stuck well, you may want to turn the garment inside out and press from the inside after you are done.

When using a heat press, use light to medium pressure with 300 degree heat for 25 seconds